Winter 2013 Heating

This winter seemed to be longer and colder than previous winters.

My normal mechanism defines the heating season as being when we use more than 50 kWh of gas on average a day.  This year, the winter by that definition was  175 days long, running from 22 October to 15 April.

Using our MetStats program to analyze our weather data gives us a reading of 2090 degree days, which means it was pretty much the same as every winter except for last year (see last years calculations).

Our baseline gas usage appears to be about 12 kWh/ day, and our electricity usage about 8 kWh for high rate, and 4 kWh for low rate.

Below is the table with units of kWh per degree day, once the base line is removed for the 175 days in the heating season.

	Low Rate Electricity	High Rate Electricity	Gas	Total
10-11	0.307	1.024	4.772	6.104
11-12	0.193	0.958	4.983	6.134
12-13	0.176	0.973	5.111	6.261

So a 2% degradation over the previous years, this despite getting our hands on a thermal imaging camera and putting a curtain over a single glazed door which is at the top of the stairs by a radiator.

In addition, we pretty much stopped heating the very back room of the house this winter.  However, the temperature differences were greater this winter, so that possibly contributed to more losses.

Solar generation was also down this winter, generating only 0.245 kWh of high rate electricity per degree day.  In addition, there would obviously be less passive heating available.

Fingers crossed for the results next year, when there will be two fewer members of the household for at least part of the winter, as the children both head off to university.

Solar PV a year on and some illuminating thoughts

At the beginning of September, our 2100 kWp Solar PV array had been installed for an entire year.  The output was 15% over what had been predicted by the installer, generating  just under 2000 kWh in the year, and the investment is still looking to pay off in just over 7 years.

I also noticed that for the price I paid, you can now get a system that’s twice as big, so even though the FIT rate has halved, you can still get your investment back in 7 years, while generating twice as much as I am.

However, in the Northern Hemisphere, the days are getting shorter (watch it change on your PC’s desktop with Terminator for Windows Desktop) and it’s got me thinking about how we can shave bit more off of our consumption.

Ikea have an offer on in the UK for the next few days, giving you £3 off each LED bulb you buy.  This website also looks promising: http://www.directleduk.co.uk/

Should I replace all my CFL bulbs?

For example, this 60W replacement (at £11.95) replacing an 11W CFL bulb to a 5W bulb will pay for itself after 100 kWh at 11p/kWh, or about 20000 hours.  Assuming the light is on for an average of 3 hours a day, that will take 18 years to pay for itself—maybe not worth it just yet, as you can currently get CFL bulbs for about 10p each in the UK (heavily subsidised).

What about CFL downlighters?

We do however also have 8 CFL downlights that are probably reaching the end of their life (they’re on many hours a day in the kitchen), and the best price I can find at the moment for them is Pack of 3 - Megaman BR0711i Ingenium GU10 Spot Bulb 11W Warm Whitefor £14.99.  Where these apparently direct replacement GU10 LED 4.5 W  lamps are £9.95.  If the lights are on 4 hours a day, I save 10p every five days, saving £7.30 per year.  Replacing all 8 bulbs (£40 difference in price) will take just over 5 years to repay the investment, so this probably is worth doing.

How about Fluorescent Tubes?

We also have some fluorescent tubes in our bathroom placed beside a large mirror.  Three of these at 30W uses quite a lot of electricity, and I actually don’t like them very much anyway.  Also, the seem to light up a lot of the box they’re in and not so much of the mirror.  But, these IP68 LED Tape Lamps look like they might be exactly what I need.  5 meters of tape should be enough for the job at 24W and output 1800 Lumens, and again will cost just under £40, and I’ll also need a driver for the LEDs that costs about £20.  Every 15 hours these are on, I’ll save 1Kw of electricity, so they’re paid for in 9000 hours, which at an hour a day for a bathroom will take around 24 years to pay back.

That’s not a great return, but I might do it anyway.  I can probably build it in such a way that if they don’t work there, I can repurpose the strip of lights for use somewhere else.

It’s Indian Summer here in the UK, 30°C/86°F here today!

The last two days (September 28, 29) we’ve had cloudless skies, so sun all day long.  We also had a very good day on September 23, but the temperatures were much cooler (around 17°C), and there was a bit more cloud.

What better way to find out how temperature affects solar PV output!

Though the total on each of the days was around 9kWh, with the peak both yesterday and today at 1.5 kW, but on the 23rd, we had our record output for a 5 minute period of 1.8 kW!  So it looks like a warm sunny day will reduce output by about 17%. 

The system is 2.1 kWp, and given the sun is pretty much over the equator on the 23rd, we can calculate that at noon on that date, the sun is at 38° (90° – 52°) elevation, and the roof is at 30° elevation, making an angle of incidence of 58°.

Sin(68°) * 2.1 = 1.94, so the panels seemed to be within spec on the 23rd.

Today, the sun was already down to 35° at noon,  therefore
Sin(65) * 2.1 = 1.90, so the difference in solar radiation was 2.1%.

Ouch—15% degredation with temperature!  I wonder if there’s any way to cool the panels more effectively?

Current Cost EnviR shortcomings regarding Power Factor

We recently installed a Current Cost meter

The system allows you to clamp a sensor around your mains cable which broadcasts readings of current to the display.  It also allows connection of up to 9 appliances.  The display aggregates the data into two hourly, daily, and monthly bins.  It also transmits the data on an RS-232 to any listening PC. The main sensor clamps onto the live output to the main fuse box in the house, which measures all current being consumed by the house.

Our challenge was to try to use this data to monitor where our energy consumption was going, as well as collect information on our solar PV installation.

In order to monitor additional systems in the house I bought a pack of three of the sensors on the left.  One clamps around the live feed from the Solar PV system, measuring Generation. I clamped another around the live leaving the fuse box going to the underfloor heating system. The final sensor was intended to be clamped around the mains cable to the cooker.

Current clamps work with a single core only

Unfortunately, my strategy of clamping around a cable in the loft to measure the current does not work.  You must clamp it around only the live cable, or the current on the neutral cancels out the live and you get no reading.

Because I had an extra transmitter, I made a special extension cable where the live passes through the sensor, so I can plug in any set of appliances into this cable.

What’s using all that “power”

When my system eventually was up and running after the initial set backs, and some opening of my fuse box to get the clamps on the circuits, I noticed that my under-floor heating was reporting 35 watts when it was not actually heating.  This struck me as too much.  I wouldn’t leave a light bulb on all the time.  While the thermostats were warm, they weren’t that warm.

So I powered down the entire house, switched on the under-floor circuit only, and found that they were not using any measurable amount of power.

Power Factor strikes!  This happens in several circumstances.  Large magnetic loads (refrigerators, and pretty much anything with motors) only use a portion of the power, returning some of it back out of phase.  The link above tells you more about it.

Now, it’s really hard to monitor “power”

Unfortunately, this makes life difficult as the sensors are describing power that is not actually being billed to you (though it does cause inefficiencies for the power companies, and the amperage actually does flow through the circuits in the house, increasing load).

What else suffers from this? My PC for one appears to show a power factor of 0.7, which means that I have to multiply the reading on my meter by this factor to get real power.

Oh, and the Inverter for the Solar PV as well.  It shows 80 watts at night, supposedly consuming this amount, though in fact it only consumes less than 1W.

There is a solution for individual appliances.   These measure the real power on the device.  Unfortunately they don’t also let you know the power factor, so as a result, you cannot subtract the “phantom” consumption from the total. They do though let you measure real cost for the individual appliance.

Note that in the UK, consumers are not billed for Power Factor.

Dimmer switches have no effect?

I also tried measuring what happened when I used the dimmer switches on eight 50W halogen lamps.  Apparently nothing, they use almost exactly the same power. 

Of course, that can’t be right, as the dimmer switch isn’t acting like a 500W heater when the lights are dimmed.

While researching the new LED lights I talked about yesterday I was warned by my electrical supplier that they’d had some problems dimming them.

Philips have a document that describes the way these things actually work.  Again, you can see what’s going on with the power factor, as it’s only consuming a portion of the load.

Too many Sensors?

So, now I’ve populated my system with a main meter, 3 additional clamps an an appliance monitor.  The system is supposed to be able to handle 10 inputs with up to 3 readings on each.

Unfortunately, it drops packets as they are colliding, and not being received by the main unit.  There is no protocol to avoid collision.  So we now have lumpy sampling to deal with as well.

Buyer Beware

I hope this has been a useful overview of the shortcomings of the Current Cost system, which while flexible isn’t really good enough for highly accurate measurements, due to the power factor issues, and lost packets.

We’re doing our best to produce some software that alleviates some of these issues, so stay tuned.

Solar PV, 3 weeks in

Our solar panels have now been in for exactly 3 weeks, and in that time we’ve generated 140 kWh of electricity.

It’s been a fairly sunny three weeks, but the panels are generating to specification.  If you want to know more, please contact me.

In order to see what is going on, I also purchased an energy monitor, which I’m developing some software for. The monitor measures the current every 6 seconds; measuring what the house is consuming, what the solar PV is generating, and aggregates the data. You can see our usage since I bought the monitor above. I’ve also got sensors on several appliances around the house as well as the under-floor heating, so more measurements should be coming as we enter the heating season in October.

The green dots at the top are the total kWh used by the house each day, and the yellow dots at the bottom are what was generated by the solar panels.   The bar graph is the consumption for two hour periods each day, the the sample immediately after the date line being from 1-3 AM.  The values above 0 are consumption, and the values below are generation from the solar panels.

The monitored values are currently inaccurate, as you’ll notice the generation in the middle of the night.  This is because the current measurement does not correct for power factor, but that is alas another blog post.

The good news though?  Over the last 3 weeks we’ve used almost no net power during daylight hours, averaging just 1.5 kWh.